Mera Peak Climbing
Trip Duration:
22 Days
Trip Code:
PMF
Trip Grade:
Strenuous
No. of Pax:
2- 16
From
$ 3950/person
Overview
Mera peak is located at the edge of the Khumbu region, southeast of Everest, the trekking route for Mera Peak Climbing is via the excessively beautiful Hinku valley. The unspoiled and uninhabited valley is one of the wildest and most beautiful in Nepal with massive moraines, glacial lakes, and stunning mountain views.
There are many approaches to Mera; some are easy and some require the crossing of high and difficult passes. The climbing of Mera Peak has become more popular each year due to the extraordinary scenery it offers and also because previous mountaineering experience is not required.
This is the highest trekking peak (6654 meters) allowed for climbing in Nepal. However it also one of the least demanding technical climbs. Being such a high mountain, the climb is in a true sense a challenging one, but the slopes rarely exceed 30 degrees and the climbing is straightforward.
Similar to all the treks and climbing trips to Everest, trekking route to Mera starts with a scenic mountain flight to Lukla. From Lukla we ascend uphill slowly to the eastward, crossing the Zatra La pass and finally we reach the Mera La pass on the ninth day where we set up our base camp to summit Mera peak. Climbing Mera Peak is possible in a single day from the base camp but we avoid such a rush for safety reason. We will allow one day for proper rest and acclimatization and make use of a high camp to ensure 100 % success. Finally, we ascend the three summits of Mera from where we would enjoy a stunning summit panorama that includes 5 of the world’s 8000 m peaks such as Mt.Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyo. Makalu and, Kangchenjunga. Good weather and snow conditions are the major factors for safety and successful summit. The west and south faces of the peak are considered to be difficult technical routes. If favorable weather condition prevails, it is possible to summit the peak and descend back to the base camp on the same day.
Itinerary:
Considered to be the highest trekking peak, walk through the less touristy trail to uninhabited Hinku valley, this climbing is suitable for all fit trekkers, glacier climbing, rope fixing, ascending and descending training is required, the view from the High Camp and Summit is one of the finest in the Himalayas, one can experience the unique culture and lifestyle of the Sherpa community during the trip, the pleasure of contentment after the summit is un-explainable.
Program Warning
Mera Peak climbing requires a bit mountaineering experience and equally needs to be physically fit. If you are fit enough and have a sense of adventure you will enjoy both trekking and peak climbing. This program is designed to acclimatize you gradually and to protect you from high altitude sickness. However, you are requested to check your health, altitude fitness before the trip begins. We suggest you to strengthen your knee muscles and prepare for several days of steep descents.
Arrive at the Tribhuwan International Airport where you will be welcomed by Trek Himalayan representative and transferred to your hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free until evening when you’ll enjoy a welcome drinks with your guide and introduce each other. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Your guide will meet you at your hotel in the morning to begin your city tour of Kathmandu. You will visit the Boudhanath temple, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal, Pashupatinath, a Hindu pilgrimage site, and possibly view cremation ceremonies along the banks of the Bagmati River. Continue on to Patan Durbar Square to take in ancient Nepalese architecture and end your tour with a lunch. After that you will visit ancient Nepalese art in the Patan museum. Overnight in Kathmandu
After breakfast in hotel you will be transferred to domestic airport for flight to Lukla. During the flight you will enjoy the breathtaking scenery of green hills and snow-clad Mountains from the window seat. After a 35 minute journey on the flight you will reach Lukla airstrip.. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. From here, instead of following the main trail, we follow the trail to the south and descend to Surke. We walk through Dudh Kosi valley, then climb on a steep trail to Chutok La. From Chutok La, it is almost an hour’s walk to Paiya on a relatively flat trail. From Paiya, you will see a number of peaks ranging from Kongde Ri, Khatang to Tang Ragi Tu. Overnight in hotel
Today you make a steep descent through terraced hills until you reach a wooden bridge. After crossing the bridge over the river stream, you begin a climb towards Kari La pass. Then, you continue walking ahead through rhododendron and bamboo forests along a narrow mountain trail. While on trek, you will enjoy mesmerizing views of Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kunda Himal before you reach a small farming and trading village of Pangkoma.
Today the trail goes up Pangkongma La (3173 m) and then descends through a rock-strewn trail to the Hinku Khola. On the way, you walk past rhododendron forest and a lot of Mani walls. You will also enjoy mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak and Naulekh Peak. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply before reaching Nashing Dingma for overnight stay.
You will trek north towards the Surkje La and then traverse the mountain side before heading up a ridge to Phokte and then onto Chalem Kharka at 3250 m. For those with stamina will have an opportunity to continue along the ridge to a small summit at 3609m and enjoy the stunning views along the Hinku valley before heading back to teahouse for overnight stay.
Although the distance that we cover is not great, today will be a hard day due to the altitude we have to gain. We follow the spectacular ridge, steadily gaining height, to almost 4500m before dropping down, passing some beautiful lakes, to Changbu Karka at 4240m
The route contours around the main Hinku Valley, then descends steeply through the different climate zones; from grassland, through juniper and rhododendron thickets to hemlock and silver fir forests. In the afternoon we continue descending through the atmospheric Mojang Forest and drop into the main Hinku Valley for our overnight stay at teahouse in the small settlement of Kote (3550m).
We follow the rocky riverbed upstream, a reminder of the destruction caused by the glacial lake bursting, to join the main Mera trail. Further walking through meadows dotted with dwarf junipers brings us to the village of Tangnag (4300 m) where we stay overnight at teahouse. We are now in a deep valley created by the towering walls of Kusum Kanguru and the western peak of Mera.
We spend the day acclimatizing to the altitude. There will be a walk this morning to the top of a ridge south of Tangnak. We walk to approx. 5000 m and enjoy great views of Kusum Kanguru, Chamlang and the Mera La. We return to camp for lunch and in the afternoon there will be a gear check and compulsory abseil training. Your leader will also demonstrate how a PAC bag is used
A short day with approx. 4 hours of gradual ascent past Dig Kharka to Khare, the Mera Peak Base Camp. Generally we do not camp at Khare itself but continue for 40 minutes above the main settlement of Khare to a spectacular wild camp at 5000m. However, if water is not available at this wild camp we will stop at Khare itself. The afternoon is spent practicing ice axe and crampon techniques on the nearby glacier. Many of the porters will return to the more hospitable climate of Tangnag and await our return from the peak.
We have an acclimatization day at Khare and there will be the chance to walk up on to the glacier towards the Mera La, where we will practice our ice axe, crampon and rope technique and use of jumar. Please note that equipment checks and all practice sessions with the equipment both in Tangnag and at Base Camp are compulsory for everyone before the climb.
We now take supplies up to the Mera La (5400m) and set up our camp just below the pass on the Honku side. The sunset from this campsite is truly spectacular with the peaks of the Honku Himal glowing red in the setting sun.
We ascend the Mera Glacier up to a rocky outcrop to establish High Camp at 5800m. Even those who are not climbing, may well come up to the Mera La, to see how things are progressing. From this point it is possible to see five out of the six highest mountains on earth, stretching from Kanchenjunga in the east through Makalu, Lhotse and Everest to Cho Oyu in the west. This afternoon there will be a final gear check and we will prepare our clothes ready for tomorrow. After sunset (a wonderful sight on Makalu) we retire to the warmth of our sleeping bags to rest before the summit attempt tomorrow. Please note camping space is extremely limited at high camp and occasionally three people will need to share a tent. A dining tent will not be erected and meals will be served in your tent.
An extremely long day as we have a very cold start at around 2 am. We will set off roped up in teams. You will need to carry your ice-axe and wear crampons as we ascend the wide, open glacier, avoiding the few crevasses. The terrain here is not very steep but the going is very slow going due to the altitude. As dawn approaches the trail starts to ascend steeply to the east of the left-hand ridge before swinging right on easier ground to approach the summit. As we approach the summit we will rest at a col whilst the sherpas fix a safety rope to the bottom of the last part of the summit climb. The last 50 m to the summit is the steepest part of the climb. We will need the jumar for this last section – it is steep and makes the climb more challenging. The sherpas will fix the rope accordingly and help you up this section. (Please note crevasses here change from year to year. These notes were written as per the route in 2012). Once at the top the views from the sun rising over Kanchenjunga in the east, past Makalu to the plumed Everest Himal in the centre and Cho Oyu further west, make every painful step well worthwhile. Descending this steep section will involve abseiling from the summit and we will use the fixed rope back to the col. From here the descent is usually quicker although we will still be roped as care must be taken because of crevasses. We descend back down to our base camp. After a long but rewarding day, returning to a lower altitude (5000 m) means that we should all sleep soundly
A beautiful walk as we retrace our steps down the valley to Tangnag, and our first beer (chilled, of course) after the exertions of yesterday.
Today we follow some steep climbs and narrow trails on our return trek to Zatrwa La (pass)… We spend one night at Chatrabuk (4270 m)
Today we cross the Zatrwa La (pass). The pass has at least 3 different tops and the trail undulates precariously high above the valley floor.
After the pass the trail descends all the way down to Lukla where we will celebrate!
We rise early in the morning to be ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel.
The rest of the day is free to do souvenir shopping or further activities.
Our trip ends today after breakfast. Your leader will be on hand to advise and assist with your onward travel arrangements. A departure transfer to the airport is included and then you fly back your own destination
Trip Map:
What is included
What is Excluded
Mera Peak Climbing 2024/2025 Cost and Departure Dates
Nitty Gritty
Video
General Information
Nepal Visa
All visitors except the Indian nationals must hold passport and valid visa. Visa can be obtained at the Nepalese diplomatic missions and consulates abroad. Visa is also issued at the entry points. It can be extended at the Department of Immigration, Bhrikutimandap, and Kathmandu. Children under 10 years need not pay any visa fee. People willing to get entry Visa at the airport or any of the land entry points are required to fill a visa form with passport photograph.
* Tourist visa can be extended for a maximum period of 150 days in a single visa year (January – December).Your trip preparation
Mera Peak climbing requires a bit mountaineering experience and equally needs to be physically fit. If you are fit enough and have a sense of adventure you will enjoy both trekking and peak climbing. This program is designed to acclimatize you gradually and to protect you from high altitude sickness. However, you are requested to check your health, altitude fitness before the trip begins. We suggest you to strengthen your knee muscles and prepare for several days of steep descents.
Regulations
Compared to expedition peaks, the regulations pertaining to trekking peaks are relatively simple. A permit is required, which is issued by the NMA upon payment of a royalty fee. Generally, Trek Himalayan will arrange the trekking peak permit within 24 hours.
Preparation
Preparation for climbing a trekking peak is far simpler than for an expedition. The climbing period for most of the trekking peaks rarely exceeds more than a few days so large amounts of base camp equipment are not usually required. Also, due to their relatively low altitude, the amount of climbing equipment required is proportionally less. In general, preparation for climbing a trekking peak is little different from preparing for a trek.
Seasons
The lower altitude of a trekking peaks means that the ascent on some of them is possible during the winter season as well as during the spring and autumn.
Peak Permit/Garbage Fee
US$ 250 per person. This permit fee will be collected upon arrival in Kathmandu. The Permit Fee is variable as per the policy of NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association)
US$ 250.00 should be deposited to NMA as garbage deposit. The refund shall be made as per the provisions made by NMA. (Deposit fee of Garbage will not be refunded if the clients (climbers) do not take back their garbage to Kathmandu.)Pre-Trip Meeting
On arrival in Kathmandu, our staff will meet you at the airport and transfer you to our pre-booked hotel if yuo have booked this facility at the time of booking this trip or directly meet you at pre-booked hotel. There won’t be any activity on this day. We will host a pre-trip meeting at the hotel lobby on the 2nd day of your itinerary in the evening. It will be an opportunity for you to meet your trekking guide and introduce each other. The guide will brief you about the trek and check your gear to ensure the smooth running of your trekking/climbing trip.
Tea House Lodge Trek
All accommodations will be on a twin sharing basis during the trek in family-run teahouse (lodge), with a large sociable central dining area and a cozy chimney burning fire. We recommend you to use your own sleeping bag.Meals
Trek Himalayan Nepal generally do not offer meals in the trip. There is a choice of eating options, to give you the maximum flexibility in deciding where, what and with whom to eat. It also gives you more budgeting flexibility. Our groups can eat together to enable you to taste a larger variety of dishes and enjoy each other’s company. There is no obligation to do this though. Your trekking guide will be able to suggest favorite restaurants during your trip.
Food items
Most lodges/tea houses offer muesli, porridges, Pancakes, bread with jam or eggs, fried eggs on toast, tea/coffee in breakfast and in dinner typical Nepalese dal, bhat, lentil soup and Sherpa/Tibetan cuisines and western food.
Vegetarians will be able to find a range of different foods, although in some areas the choice maybe limited.Bathroom facilities
Most lodges offer hot showers and a bucket of hot water with extra cost. Above Lukla we find many western toilets and in some places there are usually just the Asian squat type toilets.
4 – Nights Full Board Camping During Climbing Period
All accommodations will be on a twin sharing tents. We recommend you to use your own sleeping bag. During the camping trek we offer muesli, porridges, Pancakes, bread with jam or eggs, fried eggs on toast, tea/coffee in breakfast and in dinner dal, bhat, lentil soup and other cuisine.
Small Groups
Small groups provide a more intimate atmosphere allowing you to get to know your Sherpa guides better and to develop lifelong friendships. Therefore, the maximum group size for this trek/climb is 12people. The minimum is 2 people.
Trekking Guide, Climbing Sherpa and Crew
All our trek leaders and crew come from different parts of Nepal with diverse cultural and religious backgrounds, but we all share our valuable experience, accept each other beliefs and work together to give our clients the best experience in Nepal. Whatever the ethnical background they belong to, differ in sex or age all members of our team work together as a family that makes us what we are.
A Typical Trekking Day
At 6.30 am your guide wakes you up. Then it’s time to have breakfast, tight up your bag pack and head off for today’s trekking for the next three to four hours then stop for an hour at pleasant spot along the way for a well-prepared hot lunch. Afterward, walk another three hours or so, before you stop for the overnight. The evening can be spent reading or chatting with your fellow hikers or trekking crew about the trip of the day. Pack of games can be an asset to these nights; your trekking crew love teaching various Nepali card games and learning new Western games. Eventually, it’s time to bed for a well-deserved night.
Flora in the Everest region
Rhododendron and Magnolio give way to birch groves and conifers as you approach the tree line. At higher altitudes blue pine is usually more common than chir pine. You will see how the pines become shorter and stockier as you gain altitude. Junipers are also found in a dwarfed form in the sub-alpine region at altitudes to 4000m. Junipers in full sized tree form are found around Thame. Also, fleshy, berrylike fruit- Hemlock and silver fir are also found in the Everest region.
Fauna in the Everest region
The Golden eagle, Eurasian Kestrel goshawk are the most common resident birds in the Everest region. Pheasants are probably the most spectacular birds seen on the ground while trekking. Around the Tengboche monastery you will see two different species of pheasants – Blood pheasant and the Impeyan pheasant digging for tubers in the stark winter fields in the Khumbu area. You can also spot the crimsonhorned pheasant with reddish legs. Tibetan snow cocks, hawk- sized raven are also visible on the ground around Gorakshep. The bark of Muntjak, a small, reddish mammal with short antlers is found at altitudes up to 2400m. The musk deer are sometimes visible in the areas between Phortse and Tengboche. The Himalayan tahr which look like a mountain goat are also visible in spring and autumn season.
Possible views of Mountains
During the trek Everest(8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Nuptse (7896m), Pumori (7145m), Amadablam (6812m.) Thamserku (6800m), Khumbila (5751m), Kwangde Ri (6187m), Cho Oyu(8201m), Tawache (6542), Kangtenga (6645m), Kusum Kanguru (6369), Makalu (8463m), Island Peak (6189m), Chhukungri (5845m), Lobuche East (6119m), Lobuche West (6145m), Khumbuste (6640m), Cholatse (6640m), Cha Kung (7020m), & many other attractive snow-capped peaks.
INSURANCE
Before joining a tour, we recommend you to take out a travel insurance which should cover cancellation, medical expenses, helicopter evacuation and emergency repatriation. Please send us the following details such as your full name, policy number and the insurance company’s 24 hour emergency contact number prior to departure. We also strongly recommend that your policy must cover personal liability, flight/trip cancellation, curtailment and loss of luggage and personal effects.
Climbing Insurance:
We strongly recommend you to have High Altitude (above 3000 meters) Insurance that covers all unseen incidents during the climb.
Rescue/ Evacuations
Though we hope for the best trip, you sometimes might be in need of rescue or evacuation in case of a serious sickness or a personal prolonged health issue. During such emergency you will be rescued by a helicopter. You are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation services. We request you to make sure when you purchase insurance from your country that your policy must cover these expenses or you should remain prepared to pay or sign on Helicopter Evacuation Form before you get on the Helicopter.
Domestic Flight Cancelation
If scheduled flight gets cancelled due to bad weather from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu. In such situation, we need to send chartered helicopter. Helicopter cost has to be borne by the clients as per the prevailing cost.
A Typical Trekking Day
At 6.30 am your guide knocks on your door and greets with a cup of tea. Then it’s time to have breakfast, tight up your bag pack and head off for today’s trekking for the next three to four hours then stop for an hour at pleasant spot along the way for a well-prepared hot lunch. Afterward, walk another three hours or so, before you stop for the overnight. The evening can be spent reading or chatting with your fellow hikers or trekking crew about the trip of the day. Pack of games can be an asset to these nights; your trekking crew love teaching various Nepali card games and learning new Western games. Eventually, it’s time to bed for a well-deserved night.
Money Exchange
We recommend you to exchange at least USD 450 for meals during the tea house/lodge trek.
Safety
We strongly recommend the use of a neck wallet or money belt while travelling for the safe keeping of your passport, air tickets, cash and other valuable items. Many hotels in Nepal have safety deposit boxes, which is the most secure way of storing your valuables. A lock is recommended for securing your luggage.
Climbing Safety
Safety has always been Trek Himalayan’s top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides and Sherpa always focus on the successful climb without compromising safety. Our guides and staff are highly trained in emergency mountain medicine and work to maintain our strict standards of safety. Our camps are stocked with comprehensive medical kits and we have two Gamow bags on the mountain throughout the expedition.
When problems arise on the mountain away from medical facilities, the level of training and experience Trek Himalayan guides have makes them some of the most sought-after guides in the profession. Careful planning and vigilant care are taken as we venture into high altitudes. Our well-planned use of climbing oxygen dramatically improves a climber’s chance of success in 8,000 high mountains. Our supply of oxygen is well stocked and designed to meet any climber’s anticipated, and unanticipated, needs.
Porter Welfare
Many trekking porters come from villages. They live hard and frugal lives and work to carry heavy loads using the traditional ‘doko’ (the bamboo latis basket supported from the forehead). Heights up to 3,500m are part of everyday life and they resist wearing what they consider to be unnecessary personal equipment. Above that altitude, Trek Himalayan urges them the use of kit suited to the varying levels of more extreme conditions. It’s an incredible job that they do and we really appreciate their working nature and try to reward accordingly.
Trekking Equipment
Here are some recommended Equipment’s List for trekking in Everest region
- Camera (With extra memory cards and batteries)
- Cash, credit and debit cards
- Day pack (Used for daily excursions)
- First-aid kit (should contain lip balm with sunscreen, sunscreen, whistle, Aspirin, Ibuprofen, band aids/plasters, tape, anti-histamines, antibacterial gel/wipes, antiseptic cream, Imodium or similar tablets for mild cases of diarrhea, extra prescription drugs you may be taking)
- Flashlight/torch (Headlamps are ideal)
- Fleece top/sweater
- Sleeping Bag
- Footwear Hat
- Locks for bags
- Long pants/jeans
- Money belt
- Outlet adapter
- Personal entertainment (Reading and writing materials, cell phone, etc.)
- Reusable water bottle
- Shirts/t-shirts
- Sleepwear
- Small travel towel
- Sunglasses
- Toiletries (Preferably biodegradable)
- Watch and alarm clock
- Waterproof backpack cover
- Windproof rain jacket
- Down Jacket
Note: It is possible to buy or rent the above gear in Kathmandu
Climbing Equipment
- 1 pair plastic shell mountaineering boots with high altitude liners
- 1 pair of crampons (steel, no aluminum)
- 1 Alpine climbing harness
- 1 Mountaineering an axe with leash (sized properly for your height)
- 1 Ascender (right or left handed as appropriate)
- 1 Belay device (Black Diamond ATC or ATC Guide is a good option)
- 2 D-Shaped locking carabiners
- 2 Non-locking carabiners
- 1 Pair expedition style gaiters (ensure fit over your boots)
- Neck gaiter
- Climbing Helmet
General
4-season sleeping bag (We can provide one if you need it but has to be returned after the trek)
Duffel bag (We will provide one complimentary)
Daypack
Down jacket (that suits high altitude weather condition)Upper Body – Head / Ears / Eyes
Sun hat (We will provide you a complimentary Ace the Himalaya hat)
Wool or synthetic hat that cover the ears
Sunglasses with 100% UV protection
Headlamp
Neck warmerHand
Liner gloves
Heavier shell gloves
Core BodyT-shirts (2)
Lightweight expedition thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Water/windproof shell jacket (Preferably breathable fabric)
Synthetic sports bras (for women)Lower Body – Legs
Lightweight expedition thermal bottoms
Nylon hiking shorts
Soft shell and hard shell trekking pants
Water/windproof trousers
Casual pantsFeet
Liner socks
Heavyweight socks
Waterproof hiking/trekking boots
Light shoes/sneakers
Gaiters (For monsoon and winter)Note: Above equipment are available for Rent. If you want to rent these equipment, please contact us.
FAQ
- Nepal is a land of ancient history, colorful cultures and multi- religions found nowhere else on the planet! There are many festivals and cultural events celebrated throughout the year in the various regions by different Nepalese ethnic groups who follow their own way of religious practice, lifestyle, language, culture, and tradition keeping peace and harmony in society.
- Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal. At least, you need to spend one or two nights in Kathmandu before and after your trekking trip. We can arrange your hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as per your interest and budget.
- In Kathmandu, we provide clean and basic standard hotel with breakfast. During the trek we provide basic clean tea house/lodge & full board camping during Peak climbing.
- In Kathmandu, we do provide you breakfast. All meals on full board basis will be provided during climbing. Freshly cooked food is served at all times (western, continental and Nepali meals are available in all places). Three meals a day will be provided. During the tea house/lodge trek we will provide only breakfast.
- This trip can be extended and there are many options and choices to extend your holiday before or after your main trip. Following trips are suggested for your holiday extensions. The extensions trip cost based on your request after the trip below our advised. Optional Programs: Chitwan Jungle Safari, River Rafting, Meditation & Spa/Yoga, Bungee Jump
