Mt. Thamserku Expedition
Trip Duration:
33 Days
Trip Code:
EXT
Trip Grade:
Strenuous
No. of Pax:
2 - 12
From
$ 7600/person
Overview
Mt. Thamserku (6723m) is one of the extreme expedition mountains which lies north of Mount Kusum Kangaru in the Everest region. It is rated as challenging and technical Mountain but most adventure seekers like to climb it to face the challenge of nature. Thamserku‘s best view can be observed from Phortse village, but the most impressive view can be sighted from Mingmo Valley which is least explored by any trekker or climber till this date. Thamserku is a technical climbing mountain which requires climbing skills and good physical fitness.
The trip to Mt. Thamserku Expedition begins from Lukla after 35 minutes scheduled flight from Kathmandu on a small aircraft. From Lukla you will trek to Phakding and stay overnight at lodge or camp. Next day we follow the classical route to Namche Bazaar. We will spend two nights at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and side excursion. From Namche we walk through Phortse Tanga and head towards Thamserku Base Camp
Itinerary:
Mt. Thamserku (6723 m) is one of the extreme expedition mountains which lies north of Mount Kusum Kangaru in the Everest region. It is rated as challenging and technical Mountain but most adventure seekers like to climb it to face the challenge of nature.
Arrive at the (TIA) Tribhuwan International Airport where you will be welcomed by Trek Himalayan representative and transferred to your hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free until evening when you’ll enjoy a welcome drinks with your guide and introduce each other. Overnight in Kathmandu
Hotel Accommodation (Kathmandu)
Royal Singi [4 Stars Category Hotel]
This is an example of the hotel we may use in Kathmandu city. Your actual hotel will be specified when your booking is confirmed. Please check your email or booking confirmation.
After breakfast at Hotel your guide will meet you and take you to city sightseeing in the Kathmandu valley. You will visit the Boudhanath temple, the largest Buddhist Stupa in Nepal, Pashupatinath, a Hindu pilgrimage site and possibly you can view cremation and Hindu rituals along the banks of the Bagmati River. Continue on to Patan Durbar Square and explore ancient Nepalese architecture and end your tour with a lunch. After that you will view ancient Nepalese art in the Patan museum. Overnight in Kathmandu
It will takes almost an entire day!
A very early morning wake up and transfer to the domestic airport to board a flight to Lukla. We take off to our destination on a 35 min scenic mountain flight to Lukla. If the weather is good, the views of the Himalayas from the plane can be enjoyed.
After a cup of tea at local Lodge in Lukla our guide briefs on safety and introduction to our porters and begin the trek on the legendary “Everest Highway” which heads downwards through the alpine valley following the “Dudh Koshi” or milk river (named after its milky color from glacial silt). We reach Phakding after an approximately 3hrs walk and end our first-day trek there. Overnight at Phakding
Today you will walk for almost 7 hours mostly uphill through the alpine valleys. You will be crossing Dudh Koshi River a few times before you reach Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu region. The walk starts to get a bit strenuous with an uphill ascent to Namche Bazaar. On a clear day, you get views of Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, Kusum Kangru, Kwangde and Tawache on the way to Namche. Overnight at Namche Bazaar.
Acclimatization is important before proceeding to higher altitudes. So, you will stay one more night at Namche bazaar so that you can properly acclimatize to the altitude. This is the first acclimatization day in Namche bazaar that everyone should have into their trekking itinerary. You can explore around and relax. Namche tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu has an abundance of lodges, tea shops, and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. For the acclimatization, you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or above the Bhote Koshi river valley towards Thame ( 3810 m) or Everest View Hotel which is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, and Khumbu peaks. Overnight at Namche Bazaar
From Namche climb the hill to Khumjung and descend west of the village down the broad valley leading to the Dudh Koshi. Here there is a choice of routes, the Yak trail which climbs gently, but traverses a long distance around the ridge, or the steep staircase-like trail made of rocks embedded in the narrow cleft of a large boulder. The two trails soon rejoin and continue towards a large chorten on the ridge top at 3973 m. This ridge descends from Khumbila. From the ridge at Mong the trail descends in a series of steep switchbacks down a sandy slope to the Dudhkoshi. After crossing the bridge you will reach Phortse, a small Sherpa village.
PhortseTanga then head towards Thamserku base camp.
We spend couple of days at base camp for climbing training such as; how to use Oxygen, mask and regulator. Generally, three camps are set in the approach above the Thamserku base camp (4,750 m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The climb from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the Mt. Thamserku expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through rock to the ridge where camp 1 is set up. From Camp I (5100 m) your first real camp is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. Camp II (5600 m), now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. Camp III (6200 m), a cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
After cleaning up Base camp we trek down to Namche Bazaar. On the way we cross the suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi River and trek onwards to the Kyanjuma, the junction of the trinity ways to Gokyo Valley, Khumjung village and Namche Bazzar. Great view of Ama Dablam, Tawache and Lhotse as well as some species wildlife such as Pheasants, Himalayan Griffons, Musk deer and wild goat can be found inside the rhododendron forest. In the late afternoon we reach Namche Bazaar for overnight stay
We descend to Lukla passing through many locations. It is much faster heading down although a little harder on the knees. We cross at least four suspension bridges again and finally we arrive at Lukla where we end our trek of the day. On this day we see many new groups on the trail heading out to Namche. At a tea-house at Lukla we will toast over a beer the incredible trip we just finished and spent some time reflecting over our experiences.
We pack up early and head for the airstrip to catch a flight back to Kathmandu
Upon arrival in Kathmandu the rest of your day is free to do your own things. You could do some last minute shopping and packing, or send a few post cards home or even go down for a stroll to Thamel.You will be completely free today. You can do the last minute shopping and visit natural Ayurveda Massage center for much needed body relaxation.
Our representative will transfer you to the International Airport for your onward journey.
Trip Map:
What is included
What is Excluded
Mt. Thamserku Expedition 2024/2025 Cost and Departure Dates
Trip Code
Arrival Date
Departure Date
Status
Price
Nitty Gritty
General Information
Nepal Visa
All visitors except the Indian nationals must hold passport and valid visa. Visa can be obtained at the Nepalese diplomatic missions and consulates abroad. Visa is also issued at the entry points. It can be extended at the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu. Children under 10 years need not pay any visa fee. People willing to get entry Visa at the airport or any of the land entry points are required to fill a visa form with passport photograph.
* Tourist visa can be extended for a maximum period of 150 days in a single visa year (January – December).Pre-Trip Meeting
On arrival in Kathmandu, our staff will meet you at the airport and transfer you to our pre-booked hotel. There won’t be any activity on this day. We will host a pre-trip meeting at the hotel lobby on the 2nd day of your itinerary in the evening. It will be an opportunity for you to meet your trekking guide and introduce each other. The guide will brief you about the trek and check your gear to ensure the smooth running of your trekking trip.
Accommodations
All accommodations will be in Tea House/ Lodge on a twin sharing basis during the trek from Phakding to Phortse Tanga and from Phortse Tanga to Base Camp and higher camps in tents. From Phakding to Phortse Tanga we provide a family-run teahouse (lodge), with clean and comfortable rooms. In the lodge a restaurant, hot water for bathing, and WiFi internet services are available. However, we recommend you to use your own sleeping bag at the lodge. Members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.
Meals
Trek Himalayan Nepal generally offers meals on the trip. In breakfast we serve muesli, porridges, pancakes, bread with jam or eggs, fried eggs on toast with tea/coffee and in lunch and dinner we serve freshly cooked typical Nepalese dal, bhat, lentil soup, vegetable curry, chicken curry, and Sherpa/Tibetan cuisines and high altitude food in higher camps. We provide necessary kitchen staffs and Camp Manager at BC and higher Camps.
Bathroom facilities
From Phakding to Phortse Tanga there will be an attached bathroom and western toilets facility. While on mountain expedition, at Base Camp and higher camps, we will erect a temporary toilet tent and use individual square-shaped tight capped plastic bottles for urine. For female climbers, we use a funnel to pee into a bottle.
Small groups
Our classic small group size from 5 to 15 members, give you greater access to your expert climbing and supportive guide to make your summit a great success. It allows you to have personalized care of your guide and you truly immerse yourself in the climbing adventure and ultimate goal.
Climbing season
The main climbing season for Thamserku expedition in Nepal begins in Spring ( April- May). In spring, the temperature to the Everest region is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching to climb and summit after sufficient acclimatization and practice at Base camp. Start at the beginning of April and end on the second week of May is the best recommended period for Thamserku Expedition in spring. During the spring season, there is a rare chance of rainfall.
Thus, the humidity is also low and the daytime temperature is warm. But, nights and mornings are still cold and chilly.
Thus, we strongly recommend our climbers to choose the spring for Thamserku expedition. Trek Himalayan is ready enough for organizing the Thamserku expedition in spring every year.
Responsible Travel
The beautiful environment of the Himalaya is an extremely fragile condition. We are extremely conscious about the environment and aim to minimize the detrimental impact as much as possible. As deforestation is one of the greatest environmental threats, we do not have campfires while trekking and we use kerosene or gas as cooking fuel. We also discourage trekkers from using wood-fuelled hot showers in lodges along the trails. Many lodges, however, now provide solar energy, a far more eco-friendly alternative.
Garbage disposal is another major problem. Some of the busier trails are at times strewn with litter and garbage thrown by irresponsible trekking groups. Our staff members are well motivated towards eco-friendly practices. We carry the non-biodegradable garbage, which can be safely and easily burned at the campsite. Our aim is to help protect and preserve our beautiful environment for future generations and trekkers as well.
Altitude sickness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) which can turn if not treated upon recognizing the symptoms. AMS is the effect of altitude on those who ascend too rapidly to elevations of 3,000m or above. Early mountain sickness results in headache, loss of appetite and sleepiness. One can encounter such sickness no matter she/he looks physically young, strong and fit. Medicine itself can be on substitute unless patients suffering from such sickness are immediately rushed downhill. Doctor may provide temporary care with some medicines and oxygen but the patient must be brought down immediately in order to escape danger. For emergency purpose, one can contact doctors at Khunde and Pheriche hospitals in Khumbu trekking region.A Typical Day in Climbing
Each morning you will be woken at 6:00 or 6:30 (depending on the day) with a cup of coffee or tea followed by hot water in a bucket for personal washing. A hot breakfast will be served at 07:00 or 07:30 (again depending on the day). On clear mornings, you will have a good opportunity to take photographs of the area and Mountains as the weather may change by mid-day and become misty or foggy.
You will normally walk for some hours and have lunch on the way on most of the days. You will be served a hot lunch set at a table and chairs for your extra comfort and convenience. A private toilet will also be available for you at lunchtime and at the camp each night and morning. On other days, depending on how long your climb is, your lunch will be served at the camp where you will spend the night.
As soon as you arrive at the camp, which has been set up before your arrival, you will be provided with hot water for personal washing. Then plenty of coffee, tea or hot chocolate with snacks will be available in the dining tent, followed by a hot dinner in the evening.
Every evening after the meal, your guide will brief you on the next day’s schedule and, for example, how the weather is expected to be, how the terrain will be, how you will have to prepare etc.The only accommodation option on all routes is sleeping in tents at designated campsites. We use waterproof sleeping tents for all climbers and staff. We also provide a 4-inch mattress* for you to sleep on giving you the best possibility of sleeping well while camping.
When you arrive at the base camp for the final preparation, you will have an early dinner and be briefed on preparation for the summit. On this day you will go to bed earlier than other days. You will be woken up at 11:00 to get ready to leave for the summit at midnight. Before leaving you will have a light breakfast.Our Sherpa Climbing Team – ratio 1:1
THE SHERPA PEOPLE
The Sherpas, literally “people from the east” is an ancient ethnic group from Tibet, inhabiting the Everest region of Nepal. They are Buddhists and come from the Khumbu region where they work as trekking or climbing guides assisting groups or commercial western expeditons during the high season.
Since 1953 and the first ascent of Everest by Edmund Hillary and Tanzing Norgay, Sherpa people started working on the mountain to develop their valley and their capital city, Namche Bazar at the altitude of 3,440m.HEAD CLIMBING SHERPA
The sherpa team is led by our Head Climbing Sherpa under the supervision of the Western Head Climbing Leader and the governance of the Expedition Organiser. The Head climbing Sherpas oversees the climbing Sherpa team in charge of the carrying of the group equipment between camps, installing and supplying higher camps before the ascent, installing the ropes and the ladders through the icefall.
CLIMBING SHERPA
To increase your chance of success and ensure maximum enjoyment to all, each team member will be climbing with his assigned Sherpa. We believe in a 1:1 ratio to make sure that you are not climbing on your own in high altitude and also not carrying heavy load that could burn yourself out for summit day. They are also at your side to monitor your climbing progression, your physical and mental condition during the climb.
TEAM SPIRIT
We like to operate as a team, climbing members, Sherpas and local staff altogether. A good team spirit is essential and a respect to all is paramount. It is also important to bear in mind that, whatever decision is made by the expedition manager, the head leader or your personal Sherpa during the ascent, you are required to follow their command. Our climbing Sherpa team is well-trained and has worked on many Everest expeditions and some of them have climbed Everest numerous times.
EXTRA PERSONAL SHERPA
Climb light!
We offer the support of an extra climbing Sherpa to provide an additional support to help you save your energy. Your personal Sherpa will carry oxygen cylinders, climbing gear, camera bag or simply assist you during your climb and help you achieving your goals. An extra Sherpa are also available at the fixed rate of extra cost. That will include his equipment, oxygen, insurance and wages.
CLIMBER’S EXPERIENCE
You understand that climbing Everest is not a guided expedition and that each team member has to be self-sufficient, well trained and in good physical and mental condition. The climbing staff along with the expedition organizer will make sure that each member has suitable knowledge to climb, is self-sufficient and able to climb towards the upper camps. They also insure that you climb and come back in full safety. For the well-being of the group and for your safety, the expedition organizer/guide/Sherpa’s decision is final.
Solo climbers or climbing without the help of supplemental oxygen is Not Allowed.Supplemental Oxygen system & “Top Out” Mask
WHY USING OXYGEN IN ALTITUDE
Altitude sickness, also known as acute mountain sickness, is caused by low concentration of oxygen molecules at altitude. Although the percentage of oxygen remains at 21% of air, the low air pressure above 2,500m decreases the number of oxygen particles inhaled.
The body reacts by a rise of hemoglobin concentrations to bring oxygen to vital organs thanks to the red blood cells. But ventilation and dehydration generates a fall in the plasma volume caused by the loss of water molecules through breathing.
The acclimatization process is thus vital to adapt to altitude and reduce the effects of Altitude Sickness on the body. The use of supplemental oxygen also allows warding off the primary symptoms of AMS.SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN SYSTEM
With the altitude, the oxygen level in the blood decreases. Climbing with supplemental oxygen reduces the impact of the altitude by lowering artificially the true altitude. It prevents headaches and AMS effects (nausea, vomiting, fatigue, weakness etc). Supplemental oxygen along with adequate acclimatization processes help the body to adjust to lower oxygen levels at high altitudes.
“TOP OUT” OXYGEN MASK & OXYGEN CYLINDERS
We use 4L Oxygen cylinders and the “Top Out” oxygen masks manufactured by Ted Atkins, a former RAF Engineering Officer.
What makes the “Top Out” mask different from the Poisk system? The mask includes a reservoir that allows a higher level of oxygen to be inhaled when breathing in without the waste of oxygen flow when breathing out. Thus, you get the right amount of oxygen when climbing. The mask is also far better fitting than the POISK ones. With two different sizes available, the mask fits your face, enhances climber’s comfort, does not obstruct the climber’s vision and avoids any slip on the goggles. Valves are also removable and the mask is washable with water and soap to keep the device clean and germ free. The system has gained in popularity and is now used by most expeditions. On Reach Summit Everest expeditions, a number of 7 bottles (oxygen cylinders) with masks and regulators are included in the price. Additional bottles are also stored at Base Camp and will be carried by the climbing Sherpa. When in Kathmandu, you could test the Top Out system and get more familiar with it.Trekking & Climbing gear
FOOTWEAR
- Light hiking boots or trekking shoes (with ankle support, Goretex/E-vent lining) for the trek to Base Camp
- Light hiking sandals with toe-protection for days in town
- flip flops for the showers
- High Altitude Climbing Boots. No plastic boots with overboots (Millet Everest GTX or La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo)
- 12 points crampons (see below, climbing equipment)
- Trekking Socks (3) Wool (Merino or equivalent) or Synthetic
- Socks (4) Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks to be worn over the liner socks (silk)
- Expedition Personal Gear Liner Socks (4) Smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
- Ice Axe (T rated) with leash, lightweight and general mountaineering tool
- Step in crampons with anti-bot/anti-balling plates and heal lever, make sure they fit your high altitude boots before expedition
- Mountaineering harness (lightweight), make sure it fits over your downsuit
- Regular Carabiner (4)
- Locking Carabiner (2)
- Slings/Prussik cords to attach your Jumar and safety on your harness. Bring 8m of 6mm prussikcord or ½” webbing.
- Jumar/ascender with good handle, left or right handed
- Figure 8 ONLY, no ATC’s, VC’s or Verso/Reverso’s device.
- Climbing Helmet
- Trekking poles (1 pair, Komperdell or equivalent)
TECHNICAL CLOTHING
- Lightweight Long Underwear (2) Tops and bottoms synthetic or wool. NO Cotton
- Thick Long Underwear for altitude. Top and bottom.
- Lightweight Synthetic/cotton Pants (1 -2) for trek and base camp wear
- Short Sleeve Synthetic/quickdry T- Shirt (3) for trek and base camp wear
- Fleece /Soft Shell Jacket with full-zip
- Fleece/Soft Shell Pants
- Fleece / Primaloft Jacket lightweight to wear inside Downsuit
- Down jacket to wear in base camp
- Expedition Down Suit (recommended) or Down Jacket and Pants
- Hard Shell Jacket with hood
- Hard Shell Pants
- Down Sleeping
- Water proof jacket and trousers
- Climbing boots
- Trekking boots
- Wind Proof jacket & trousers
HANDWEAR
- Lightweight Synthetic gloves (2) Should fit inside mitts or gloves (powerstretch, wool, no windblock/stopper)
- Heavyweight fleece/wool or Soft Shell gloves (2), with grip in palm
- Hard Shell Gloves/Mitts
- Expedition down Mitts. Should be big enough so that synthetic gloves fit inside pile liners
HEADWEAR
- Headlamp / Headtorch. Bring spare bulbs & batteries
- Glacier glasses, categorie 4. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses
- Baseball cap or sun hat (2)
- Ski Goggles (2) One pair 100% UV & IR and the other with clear lenses for summit day for start in the night.
- Balaclava (2) One heavyweight and one lightweight
- Warm synthetic or wool hat (2)
- Neoprene face mask or Balaclava
HYGIENE
- Soap (liquid), Shampoo
- Tooth brush (2), Toothpaste
- Hand sanitizer gel (several small bottles)
- Thick baby wipes
- Foot powder
- Towel (fast drying)
- Mirror
- Shaving foam, Shaving blades
- Sunblock, high SPF (50+)
- Competed plasters
- Nail cutter
- Menstrual cup (safe alternative to tampons and pads for women)
- Personal medicine & medical kit
MEDICAL SUPPLY
- Medical monitoring via Sat Phone at Base camp
- Fully equipped Medical Suitcase with electrocardiogram, Ultrasound & Tough Book Laptop
- Comprehensive Medical Kit
- Tensiometer
- Oxymeter
- Medical oxygen
- Gamow Bag / Hyperbaric chamber
- A comprehensive medical kit.
We recommend all our expedition team members to bring their personal Medical Kit.
- Imodium
- Analgesia
- Antibiotics (to cover extensive variety of infections)
- Paracetamol / aspirin / Ibuprofen
- Gauze dressing / Bandage
- Antiseptic (spray or liquid)
- Betadine
- Simple dressings / steristrips to close wounds
- Compeed for blisters
- Aqua tablets
- Safety Pins
- Haemorrhoid cream
- Dexamethasone tablets
- Diamox (acetazolamide)
- Nifedipine (for HAPE)
- Eye drops
- Nasal Spray
- Cough syrup
- Throat lozenges
- Cream for cold sores
- Vaseline/sunburn lotion
Please consult your doctor prior departure for necessary inoculation and certificate.
COMMUNICATION
- ICOM Radio base for base camp
- Walkie Talkie for sherpas in altitude
- THURAYA satellite-based telecommunications (Sat Phone)
- METEOTEST weather forecasts via e-mail
- Communications are chargeable for calls abroad. It is a Pay as You Go option.
EVEREST BASE CAMP
We provide base camp and altitude tents as well as kitchen tent at Base Camp with support of the kitchen crew and the necessary yaks to carry group gear.
- Electricity generators
- Gas heater for dinner tent
- All Food – 3 meals a day
- All camping equipment
- Team member tents
- Fuel
- Mattresses
- Kitchen tent
- Dining tent
- Toilet tent
- Shower tent
- Solar panels
- Solar charger
- Video system
- DVD Films
- Himalayan herbal tea
You will not carry heavy loads to save your energy.
ALTITUDE CAMPS
- Climbing equipment : Ropes, ice screws, snow bars …
- Necessary Gas-cylinders in high altitude camps
- Altitude tents
- Dry food
- Fuel
Nutritious Food
We provide balanced meals from our kitchen menu such as fresh fruits, vegetables, food rich in protein and carbohydrates. The products are carefully selected for their capacity to be easily digested in an environment low in oxygen. The cook is trained to prepare excellent tasty meals. We provide local as well as continental meals. Hygiene is particularly respected to avoid any illness related to food in order to remain in excellent health before the climb.
MEALS AT BASE CAMP
There will be three meals a day at base camp including assorted supplements such as fresh bread, ground coffee, chocolate bars and breakfast cereals. Base camp cooking and menus will be organized by the base camp manager, working with the Sherpa cook. We serve high altitude food the tastiest freeze-dried meals as well. The breakfast varies with, with the choice of cereals, pudding, toast, eggs, and sometimes crepes. Lunches are composed of a hot meal similar to the dinner menu Dinners include a main dish with pastes and rice with vegetables, soup and fruits or cakes. Lentils, beans and chicken allow an essential protein contribution. Coffee, Tea, Hot drinks and snacks are at discretion throughout the day so that our expedition team members can hydrate suitably and eat regularly.
TASTY FOOD IN ALTITUDE CAMPS
Although appetite is reduced with altitude, we endeavor to offer a large variety of tasty food to all our expedition team members. As much as possible, we will reduce the number of dried meal but try to provide meals of pastes and rice précuits to our expedition team members. Depending on climatic conditions, a tent dedicated to the kitchen is assembled to prepare suitable meals before the next efforts in altitude. The majority of food will be from Western sources, except for staples such as rice, sugar and flour which will be bought locally.
Environmental Practice
The base camps and normal routes up the higher mountains, such as Everest, are under considerable environmental pressure. We will strive to minimize the impact of our expedition by adhering to a responsible and workable environmental policy, as set out by the UIAA.
We make every effort to retrieve ropes and other equipment from the mountain. The high altitude Sherpas will be paid a bonus for each load of equipment or rubbish that they are able to return to ABC for evacuation from here to base camp by yak.
Hygiene
The importance of personal hygiene on expeditions cannot be overstated. To improve the overall welfare of team members and to reduce the chances of illness, we take the following measures:
Hygienic kitchen practice and the sterilization of plates and utensils before every meal.
Hot washing water and soap readily available before all meals at base camp and on request during the day.
Shower facilities at base camp.
Centralized toilet facilities at base camp, checked daily to ensure cleanliness.
Medical Cover
The expedition will be equipped with the following:
- A medical kit compiled by the expedition doctor.
- Oxygen equipment reserved for medical use only.
- A portable hyperbaric chamber.
- Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for evacuation.
How we acclimatize during Everest expedition
For acclimatization on Mt., Everest South Face we follow a proven expedition itinerary. Proper acclimatization is the most important aspect of a successful trip. While trekking to Base Camp, our goal is to stay healthy and make sure all our climbers are acclimatizing properly. We are not on a fixed schedule and this is why we take extra days anywhere during the trek to further acclimatize, if necessary. It is extremely important that when you reach Base Camp you are feeling good and are comfortable with the thin air at 17,500 ft. (5,334 m).
After heading into Everest Base Camp, we spend four to six days acclimatizing while training in the safe areas of the lower Khumbu Glacier. We do practice ladder crossings, fixed-line travel, rappelling, and crampon work, which prepare us for climbing on the mountain. During training, we make a foray partway up the Khumbu route before heading to Camp I (19,590 ft. /5,971 m).
On our first rotation up the mountain, we climb to Camp I and spend the night there. The next day we take a short walk to Camp II (21,300 ft. /6,492 m) and back to Camp I for a second night of sleep. On Day 3 we climb up to Camp II and spend two to three days acclimatizing in the area before returning to Base Camp.
We will take another rest period of four to seven days at Base Camp. When the entire team is ready, we head back to Camp I, and the following day up to Camp II. We will take a rest day here and if the weather is good, we climb up to Camp III (23,500 ft. /7,162 m) the next day. Our Sherpa guides make a decision whether or not to spend the night at Camp III based on weather and other factors. After returning from Camp III to Camp II, we rest for the night and descend to Base Camp the next day.
After this rotation, we have the option to head down Khumbu valley for a rest period to breathe thick air, eat large amounts of food, and enjoy the sunshine and warm weather for several days. This method has been found to be extremely beneficial in preparing climbers for the summit attempt.
Summit Attempt
Before summit attempt, we watch out weather condition and activity on the mountain via. Radio. When all is stable we head back up to Base Camp and prepare for our summit attempt. With a good weather report, we climb to Camp II and rest the next day. If the weather is still stable, we put on our oxygen gear and climb up to Camp III, and the following day to High Camp at the South Col (26,000 ft. /7,924 m). We rest the entire next day on oxygen after reaching High Camp and leave for the summit late that evening. Around 8 or 9 p.m. we wake you up and begin getting everyone dressed and ready for the summit attempt. We leave between 11 p.m. and midnight. You have guides and Sherpa assisting you the entire day.
You will be climbing on full flow oxygen, which is four liters per minute, and you will have personal Sherpa carrying extra oxygen for you. Usually, we reach the summit between 8 a.m. and 9 a.m. We take photos, enjoy the view, and celebrate our success on the summit before heading down. The usual time to descend is three to four hours back to the South Col. Those who will be climbing Mt. Lhotse leave that evening at midnight and descend to Camp II. Others will leave later that morning and descend directly to Camp II. The following day we all descend to Base Camp.
General Travel INSURANCE
Before joining a tour, we recommend you to take out a travel insurance which should cover cancellation, medical expenses, helicopter evacuation and emergency repatriation. Please send us the following details such as your full name, policy number and the insurance company’s 24 hour emergency contact number prior to departure. We also strongly recommend that your policy must cover personal liability, flight/trip cancellation, curtailment and loss of luggage and personal effects.
High Altitude Mountain Climbing INSURANCE
Climbing a Himalayan Mountain or Peak as high as 6,000 metres or above does have dangers. You should ensure that you have good insurance to cover the risks. It is a condition of our booking if climb any Himalayan mountain or peak in Nepal, China, Pakistan, and India you should have medical and accident insurance.
Your insurance must cover helicopter evacuation if it becomes necessary. It should also cover the costs of getting home should you miss your scheduled International flight due to accident, injury, illness or simply bad luck. Your insurance must specifically cover to climb up to minimum 6000 meters and maximum above 8,848 meters depending on the mountain or peak you are climbing in any Himalayan destinations.
Your insurance should also protect against the ‘standard’ travel dangers, including baggage delay, loss of personal items etc.
Make sure to add ‘trekking up to 5,000 m on check out and be sure to read the small print carefully for any policy you are considering. Different policies provide different levels of cover, so make sure you understand what is and isn’t included in your policy.Rescue/ Evacuations
Though we hope for the best trip, you sometimes might be in need of rescue or evacuation in case of a serious sickness or a personal prolonged health issue. During such emergency you will be rescued by a helicopter. You are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation services. We request you to make sure when you purchase insurance from your country that your policy must cover these expenses or you should remain prepared to pay or sign on Helicopter Evacuation Form before you get on the Helicopter.
Domestic Flight Cancelation
If scheduled flight gets cancelled due to bad weather from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu. In such situation, we need to send chartered helicopter. Helicopter cost has to be borne by the clients as per the prevailing cost.Safety
Safety has always been Trek Himalayan’s top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides and Sherpa always focus on the successful climb without compromising safety. Our guides and staff are highly trained in emergency mountain medicine and work to maintain our strict standards of safety. Our camps are stocked with comprehensive medical kits and we have two Gamow bags on the mountain throughout the expedition.
When problems arise on the mountain away from medical facilities, the level of training and experience Trek Himalayan guides have makes them some of the most sought-after guides in the profession. Careful planning and vigilant care are taken as we venture into high altitudes. Our well-planned use of climbing oxygen dramatically improves a climber’s chance of success in 8,000 high mountains. Our supply of oxygen is well stocked and designed to meet any climber’s anticipated, and unanticipated, needs.
Porter Welfare
Many trekking porters come from villages. They live hard and frugal lives and work to carry heavy loads using the traditional ‘doko’ (the bamboo latis basket supported from the forehead). Heights up to 3,500m are part of everyday life and they resist wearing what they consider to be unnecessary personal equipment.
Above that altitude, Trek Himalayan urges them the use of kit suited to the varying levels of more extreme conditions. It’s an incredible job that they do and we really appreciate their working nature and try to reward accordingly.What currency to take while trekking or climbing?
While trekking or climbing to different parts of Nepal, having the local currency i.e, the Nepalese rupee would be the best option. You can easily convert your foreign currency into the local currency through banks, money exchanges in Kathmandu and Pokhara as per daily exchange rates before departing for trekking or climbing expedition.
Nepal’s official currency is NPR, Rs. or the Nepalese Rupee. The Nepalese rupee is different from the other rupees found in Asia like the Indian Rupees, Pakistan Rupee and so on. As the Nepalese currency is a universally recognized currency, it can be converted into any foreign currency. Credit cards are not usable during the trek.
Guides and porters normally accept tips after the trek in Nepalese rupees cash.High Altitude Sickness
Altitude sickness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) which can turn if not treated upon recognizing the symptoms. AMS is the effect of altitude on those who ascend too rapidly to elevations of 3,000m or above. Early mountain sickness results in headache, loss of appetite and sleepiness. One can encounter such sickness no matter s/he looks physically young, strong and fit. Medicine itself can be on substitute unless patients suffering from such sickness are immediately rushed downhill. Doctor may provide temporary care with some medicines and oxygen but the patient must be brought down immediately in order to escape danger.
FAQ
- Nepal is a land of ancient history, colorful cultures and multi- religions found nowhere else on the planet! There are many festivals and cultural events celebrated throughout the year in the various regions by different Nepalese ethnic groups who follow their own way of religious practice, lifestyle, language, culture, and tradition keeping peace and harmony in society.
- Yes, at first, Trek Himalayan airport representative will receive you at the airport and transfer to the hotel. In the hotel lobby our team leader will brief you about the itinerary, climbing gear and introduction of Climbing Sherpa guide.
- In Kathmandu we provide 4 stars category hotels with breakfast in twin sharing basis, during the trek clean basic tea house/lodge with full board (breakfast, lunch& dinner) in twin sharing basis and mountain expedition we provide spacious quality tents for all team members including our crew. In the base camp we provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities etc. In Base Camp we make access to communication facilities such as satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between main Base Camp and high camps.
- In Kathmandu, we do provide you breakfast only. During the expedition trip we provide full board meals that include, breakfast (local or western), freshly available lunch and dinner. During the climbing in the higher altitudes meals will be served as per the regulations.
- Tipping is a tradition in tourism in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and India. We highly suggest you to be generous while tipping Nepalese staff. But, tipping is not mandatory for the western tour leader.
