Mt. Baruntse Expedition
Trip Duration:
36 Days
Trip Code:
EXB
Trip Grade:
Moderate
No. of Pax:
From
$ /person
Overview
The Baruntse Expedition is a popular choice for experienced climbers who are looking for a challenging and rewarding experience. The mountain is located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, near Mount Everest and other famous peaks.
Baruntse is a beautiful and challenging mountain in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world, and is known for its stunning scenery and its challenging climbing conditions.
Mt. Baruntse (7129 metres) lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif, just west of the 8,000 meter giant Makalu and slightly east of Lhotse and Everest. High Magazine’s ‘Mountain Info’ claims Baruntse has become “the most coveted 7,000m peak in Nepal”.
Surrounded by Himalayan giants, Baruntse is one of the most accessible 7000 meter peaks that can also claim a high summit success rate. It features a relatively “easy” route which can be safely guided by our Sherpa guides. As in all expeditions, our team of climbing Sherpas will provide expert guidance and perfect preparation allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and getting stronger.
The South-East Ridge (our guided route) is a straightforward snow climb with some steep sections of ice up to 50.° There is a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters which will require fixed ropes. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced and will also require fixed ropes. The safest time to climb Baruntse is in the spring when snow conditions are best. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most wild and beautiful regions in Nepal. You hike northward through a prisitne alpine environment that rarely sees outside visitors. The walk passes through ancient Sherpa country providing breath taking views as well as time to safely acclimate.
The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m. Nearby are the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The climbing route follows a long ridge leading to the steep summit.
With its incredible views and location, Baruntse is certain to be a rewarding adventure for any climber wishing to surpass the 7000 meter zone. Those whose ultimate desire is to pursure 8000 meter peaks, may consider this climb the ideal preparation for 8000 meter goals.
Note: It is possible to complete the climb in a shorter duration than our suggested itinerary. however due to the remoteness, we must allow a few days extra to avoid bad weather during the climb.
Itinerary:
Baruntse Peak (7,045 m, 23,114 feet) lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif — just west of the 8,000 meter giant Makalu and slightly east of Lhotse and Everest. High Magazine’s ‘Mountain Info’ claims Baruntse has become “the most coveted 7,000m peak in Nepal”. Surrounded by Himalayan giants, Baruntse is one of the most accessible 7000 meter peaks that can also claim a high summit success rate. It features a relatively “easy” route which can be safely guided by our Sherpa guides. As in all expeditions, our team of climbing Sherpas will provide expert guidance and perfect preparation allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and getting stronger.
The South-East Ridge (our guided route) is a straightforward snow climb with some steep sections of iceup t o 50.° There is a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters which will require fixed ropes. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced and will also require fixed ropes. The safest time to climb Baruntse is in the spring when snow conditions are best. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most wild and beautiful regions in Nepal.
You hike northward through a prisitne alpine environment that rarely sees outside visitors. The walk passes through ancient Sherpa country providing breath taking views as well as time to safely acclimate. With its incredible views and location, Baruntse is certain to be a rewarding adventure for any climber wishing to surpass the 7000 meter zone. Those whose ultimate desire is to pursue 8000 meter peaks, may consider this climb the ideal preparation for 8000 meter goals.
Upon arrival in Kathmandu you will be received by Trek Himalayan Airport Representative and transferred to hotel. Overnight at hotel
In the morning after breakfast at 9 AM, we host a Pre-Trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduce you to our Sherpa climbing leader who will brief about the climbing program, official formalities and shopping items etc. Overnight at hotel
We take an early morning flight to Lukla. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla takes 35 minutes. Landing on a steep mountain runway, brings you to the village of Lukla 2900m on arriving at Lukla, you will meet our trekking crew. We then head eastwards from Lukla. The trail criss crosses through pristine hamlets and thick forests along Kalo Himal ridge. After 3-4 hours of trekking, we enter Chutanga. Overnight in tented camp
We spend one extra night at Chutanga. This gives us proper time for acclimatization prior to getting across the Zatrwa La pass.
The trail crosses the Kalo Himal ridge, which separates the Khumbu from the Hinku Valley. Further ahead, we traverse a comfortable path displaying a cairned notch on the ridge with several prayer flags at an elevation of 4450m.
Today, after a breakfast we continue our trek descending to Hinku valley of Gothey at an altitude of 3600m. Gothey is a good place to camp and there are several teahouses around and you can visit and get around seeing the local lifestyle in the remaining time and we will camp near by the teashops and overnight.
Today is another short day as you trek in the shadow of Mera Himal along the ridge of the Hinku Khola. The west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards then to Gondishung, a summer herder’s settlement where there will be lunch for today. Thagnag at the altitude of, 4,350m over night camp.
We have another day for complete acclimatization. After proper rest, we can explore other adventure possibilities like strolling by Sabal Tsho, beautiful moraine-dammed lake, which is hidden behind the Sabal Glacier and climbing a peak up to an altitude of nearly 5000m. We can also explore Hinku Nup Glacier, which leads north toward Kantega. The upper Hinku valley turns to the east at Tangnag, crossing the moraine of the Dig Glacier. Overnight at camp
The day heading up towards the Mera Base camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers magnificent view of Charpate Himal. The trail ascends through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to your camping spot at Khare, 5,025m.
We use one more day for acclimatization. After proper rest, we take a walk up to a small peak on the west side of the Hinku Nup Glacier, where we can reach a height of around 5500m. At this point, we get to capture marvelous views of Mera La and Mera Peak.
A short trekking day hike as you makes your way to Mera Base Camp. Lower part of the Mera Glacier. Reaching the pass Mera La, 5,415m. We then descend towards the Hongu valley and set up base camp in the moraine below the ice and overnight in Mera Base Camp, 5,350m.
Making your ascend to Mera High Camp can be tuff if it has been snow, as there are a number of crevasses here. You keep your climbing to the top of the rock. You set up a high camp and from here the view is outstanding, with Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu and horizontal skyline and overnight in Mera High Camp, 5,750m.
Early in the morning at around 2am after breakfast, we head towards the summit. By sunrise, we reach up to the 6000m. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,029ft), Cho-Oyu (8,201m/26,906ft), Lhotse 8,516m, Makalu 8,463m, Kangchenjunga 8,586m, Nuptse 7,855m, Lubuche 6,145m, Chamlang are spectacular from the summit. You then retrace your steps to Khare after the climb with a rest and some hot soup at high camp on the way down.
Climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari or White Lake, the first of a series of lakes that occupy the upper Hongu Basin. Experience the wilderness of the Hongu Valley. The Hongu Valley is true mountain wilderness. On the right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces.
Cross the wide and grassy valley scattered with small boulders. The valley gets increasingly barren as you climb higher. Pass the Peak 41 and Hunku Peak on your left and proceed to our base camp and main objective of the trip Mt Baruntse. Overnight in camp
An Advanced Base Camp would be set up at an altitude of 6,000m near the glacier at the foot of the South East Ridge. We need to allow enough time for additional acclimatization and for load carrying to stock ABC and Camp 1. Camp 1 is at a height of 6,450m on the South-East Ridge proper. Above Camp 1, we climb 45° snow slopes and the route becomes more demanding. Fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col. The route above C2 requires some fixing which would be done by our Sherpa guides. From Camp 2, we climb to the summit. Descent is by the same route, sleep at Camp 1 and ABC. Overnight in camp
Rest day as well as cleaning and drying of equipments. Also the day for some hot bath and shaving. Moreover, it’s important to leave least footprints possible for the conservation of the Himalayan environment, We collect all garbage we produced and hand over to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee at Namche
We will descend and ascend on several ridges and keep walking for 6 more hrs this day from Seto Pokhari to Mera La pass (5350m). Stay overnight at tented camp
Today after breakfast we start our trek from Mera La Pass to Tangnang (4356m) where we spend overnight in tented camp
The trail heads eastward to Tangnag. While trekking we will enjoy the beautiful sight of north face ofMera P eak in distance and slowly trek down to Mausum Kharka. Over night at tented camp
You trek steep descent path to cross Chhatre La Pass. From the pass you can enjoy the spectacular views of Numbur Himal, Kongdi Ri, Karyolang peak and many other mountains and peaks. Later, we walk along the leveled trail for almost one and half hours and then the trail turns downhill and you trek through this descent path all the way to Zatrabuk. This is campsite surrounded by hills. Over night at tented camp
Today we walk through a number of tiny Sherpa villages before getting to Chutanga. We cross over some streams and forest until we come to our camp for overnight stay.
Today is the last day of our Baruntse expedition. We walk for 7 hrs to reach Lukla. On arrival in Lukla you will relax and celebrate the completion of your expedition trip with your Sherpa crew.
This morning you will transfer to Lukla airstrip for your flight back to Kathmandu. The 40 minute flight to Kathmandu usually leaves early from Lukla but this depends on the weather
Trip Map:
What is included
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Mt. Baruntse Expedition 2024/2025 Cost and Departure Dates
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Nitty Gritty
General Information
Trip Notes tell you about the itinerary details and supplementary information of the relevant trip of Trek Himalayan. We have prepared specific trip notes adhering to fixed travel dates. Please check which travel dates suit you. If you find any trip notes missing or only partially received while sending to you by email, please bear with us. They will be there anytime soon.
FAQ
- Nepal is a land of ancient history, colorful cultures and multi- religions found nowhere else on the planet! There are many festivals and cultural events celebrated throughout the year in the various regions by different Nepalese ethnic groups who follow their own way of religious practice, lifestyle, language, culture, and tradition keeping peace and harmony in society.
- Yes, at first, Trek Himalayan airport representative will receive you at the airport and transfer to the hotel. In the hotel lobby our team leader will brief you about the itinerary, climbing gear and introduction of Climbing Sherpa guide.
- In Kathmandu we provide 4 stars category hotels with breakfast in twin sharing basis, during the trek clean basic tea house/lodge with full board (breakfast, lunch& dinner) in twin sharing basis and mountain expedition we provide spacious quality tents for all team members including our crew. In the base camp we provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities etc. In Base Camp we make access to communication facilities such as satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between main Base Camp and high camps.
- In Kathmandu, we do provide you breakfast only. During the expedition trip we provide full board meals that include, breakfast (local or western), freshly available lunch and dinner. During the climbing in the higher altitudes meals will be served as per the regulations.
- Tipping is a tradition in tourism in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and India. We highly suggest you to be generous while tipping Nepalese staff. But, tipping is not mandatory for the western tour leader.
